Brad Penn Oil 009-7120S 30W Engine Break-In Oil - 1 Quart Review

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(More customer reviews)This motor oil has enough zddp in it for use in older hi-perf engines with solid lifters, thus making it an excellent product. Much care has to be used when breaking in this type of engine.
Since the EPA has ordered that all companies reduce the zddp content in all motor oils, Brad-Penn is the best. It also is non-synthetic because that type of oil is not friendly to older, solid lifter camshafts. The newer oils have lower levels of zddp (zinc and phosphorus) which will, in time, ruin your cam lobes. This does NOT apply to newer cars running a roller cam which is designed to work with lower levels of zddp in the oil.
I researched all the motor oils for older engines, especially for breaking-in my newly rebuilt 454 c.i., 450 hp, LS-6, in my 1970 Chevelle and finally decided to use Brad-Penn. The viscosity is perfect for my engine that after start-up, had to be run for 25-30 minutes at varying RPM's between 2000 and 2500 to avoid wiping out the solid lifter cam lobes.
For anyone that has an "older," newly rebuilt engine using solid lifters, I recommend using Brad-Penn for breaking it in. Ensure that your cam lobes are liberally covered with break-in lube as well and avoid using Comp Cams red lube. It is watery and does not remain on the lobes!
Use a lube that is gray (Crane, for example) which is very thick and there will be no need to worry about starting up your engine the next day or next week, because that lube remains on the lobes and doesn't drip down into your oil pan. AVOID using Comp Cams cam lube and DO NOT use that gray cam lube on the cam bearings!
Fill your engine to its proper capacity with the Brad-Penn Break-In oil and ensure you are using a WIX oil filter. Pre-lubricate your engine by priming the oil pump with a drill and a specially made tool that fits in the hole for the distributor (or make it yourself from an old distributor) for about five minutes, rotate your engine a 1/4 turn and repeat until the the crankshaft has completely rotated 360 degrees. Remove the tool and install the distibutor and ensure your timing is very close to its specs. Then fire your engine up and check the timing. If it doesn't start right away, re-check everything because there is a strong possibility of ruining your cam from the constant rotation of the engine by the starter and wiping all the cam lube off on it.
Once it has started, run the engine as I did for about 25-30 minutes, vary the RPM's between 2000 and 2500 (adjust your carb settings to do this) and check for any oil or water leaks. The cam should be broken in at that time. Shut it down and after a little cooling, remove the Brad-Penn oil, replace it with a HIGH ZDDP, multi-weight motor oil that is NON-SYNTHETIC, and change the oil filter as well. I highy recommend that you use an Oil Additive in addition to the motor oil as well, because it has enough zddp in it to complement the new oil. Make sure you use an additive that specifically contains ZDDP.
By performing the above process, your Musclecar and it's solid lifter cam should last a long time. Change the oil and filter every 500 miles or so, but if you don't drive your car that much, change it either at the end of the season before you store it or when you bring it out of storage for a Summer of fun.

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