5/22/2012

American Grease Stick LE-4 "Lock-ease" Graphited Lock Fluid 3.4 Oz. Review

American Grease Stick LE-4 Lock-ease Graphited Lock Fluid 3.4 Oz.
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I use Lock-Ease in the hand squeezed container (NOT the spray can) to lubricate and clean the chain on my road bicycle.
Lock-Ease consists of ultra fine graphite flakes in a very low viscosity (semi) volatile fluid carrier which 99% evaporates and leaves the graphite flakes. Graphite is a perfect lubricant for the high force / low rotation speed chain link pivot pins and their bushings.
I have 3,400 miles on my chain and there is no detectable stretch (a more accurate term is pivot pin / bushing wear). The center to center pivot pin distance is still .500 inch as measured with a machinist's ruler over 12 inches.
I apply Lock Ease every 200 to 300 miles or after a rain washout. There is a noticeable difference in ease of pedaling after an application.
When Lock-Ease was used previously on the chain, the volatile liquid will clean off any minor amount of dust or fine dirt that has accumulated. If your chain is a Tri-Flow grease ball / attached dirt mess, clean it first and let it dry out thoroughly (i.e., inside the bushings / pivot pins). The same goes for the cluster and chain rings.
Shift the chain to the largest sprockets both in front and rear to make the sprockets easier to wipe clean after the Lock-Ease application to the chain.
Shake the can really well prior to use to get the graphite flakes off of the bottom of the can and into the fluid. Also shake it a few times during use.
Put one drop on each side of each pin and bushing and side plate interface of each link of the chain. The spray can version will deliver about five times more than you want on each pivot pin so buy the squeeze bottle.
After you have applied Lock-Ease to every link, wipe the chain and sprocket teeth clean with a paper towel. Then use a rolled up corner of a piece of a paper towel to clean inside of each link where the chain tooth goes. You will wonder how something that can turn paper towels so black ends up being clean.
When Lock-Ease was used previously on the chain, knock off the slight amount of accumulated fine dirt at the chain contact areas on the cluster sprockets with a tooth pick and then clean the gear teeth with Q-tips soaked in cleaning fluid, lighter fluid or Coleman lantern fuel.
The entire procedure takes about 35 minutes and while you are at it apply Lock-Ease to the bushings of the derailleur idle / guide wheels and brake caliper pivots and return spring contact points near the ends of the springs (I have vintage Campagnolo Record and Super Record brakes).
Wipe the chain down again after your first ride to get off any slight amount of fluid that crept out of the links.
I have to laugh when I see chain cleaning devices from "Finish Line", "Spin Doctor" or "White Lightning" at the bicycle store. By the time you clean the chain with one of them, let it dry, dispose of the waste cleaning fluid (if it is not water based), clean the chain cleaner (not to mention cleaning your freewheel) and then clean out your sink you are way better off with the Lock-Ease procedure.
Needles to say that Lock-Ease also works great on locks.

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